The Old Spaghetti Factory opened in Portland, Oregon in 1969 in a converted warehouse that Guss and Dorris Dussin filled with Victorian antiques, Tiffany glass lamps, and eventually a full-size trolley car parked in the middle of the dining room. The browned butter and mizithra cheese pasta was on the opening menu and has never been removed — a record very few chain restaurant dishes can claim. The restaurant expanded to around 30 locations across the western and midwestern US, and the pasta has remained the most-ordered item at most of them for over fifty years.
What makes the dish unusual — and what makes it worth seeking out the specific cheese — is the mizithra. It is a Greek whey cheese aged until it can be grated, with a salty, slightly tangy, floral quality unlike any Italian cheese. The Old Spaghetti Factory pairs it with Romano in roughly equal parts: the Romano provides the clean, soluble saltiness that helps the sauce coat the pasta smoothly, while the mizithra provides the character that makes you ask “what is that?” the first time you eat it. A plate at the restaurant runs about $22. Four servings at home cost $10 to $14, and you can brown butter in the time the spaghetti takes to cook.









