Di Fara Pizza (Dom DeMarco’s Three-Cheese Brooklyn Legend, Made at Home)
Prep time: 30 min (plus 24–48 hr cold ferment) Cook time: 10 min Servings: 4
Domenico DeMarco made pizza at 1424 Avenue J in Midwood, Brooklyn from 1965 until he died in March 2022, at age 85. He cut the fresh basil with scissors. He drizzled the olive oil from a height. His family kept the place open, still makes the pizza his way, and the line outside on a Saturday still runs down the block.
The recipe that has held that line for 60 years is not complex. It is specific.
What Makes This Pizza Different
Three things separate a Di Fara pie from every other New York pizza:
The cheese sequence. Block whole-milk mozzarella is the structural cheese, but the Grana Padano is grated directly over the sauce first — under the mozzarella, not on top. That layer of aged Italian cheese seasons the sauce from underneath and adds a savory depth that most pizzas lack. Fresh fior di latte goes on at the very end of baking, in the last 90 seconds, so it barely melts. You get three distinct textures: the stretch of the block mozz, the creamy softness of the fresh cheese, and the salty-sharp underpinning of the Grana Padano.
The finishing. After the pie exits the oven — not before — a small bunch of fresh basil is cut with scissors directly over the hot pizza. The steam from the pie wilts the basil without burning it. Then good extra-virgin olive oil is drizzled from a height, letting it spiral across the surface. These two steps are the moves Dom was famous for, and they are not optional decoration — they are a large part of why the pizza tastes the way it does.
The dough. A cold-fermented, relatively high-hydration dough that develops flavor over 24 to 48 hours in the refrigerator. It produces a crust that is extensible, slightly bready, and capable of charring at the edges while staying chewy at the interior — a specific texture that is not Neapolitan and not a standard New York slice, but a Midwood-specific category that belongs to DeMarco alone.
Cost Comparison: Di Fara vs. Home
| Di Fara | Homemade | |
|---|---|---|
| Whole pie | ~$32 | under $12 in ingredients |
| Per serving (1/4 pie) | ~$8 | ~$3 |
| Location | Midwood, Brooklyn | Your kitchen |
The economics are not the point. The point is that the technique is learnable, the ingredients are mostly available at any good grocery store, and the result — with a preheated baking steel and a 48-hour ferment — is genuinely excellent pizza.
The Dough: Why Cold Fermentation Matters
Most home pizza dough is made and baked the same day. It works, but the resulting crust is one-dimensional — bready without complexity, and prone to tearing when you try to stretch it thin.
Cold fermentation slows the yeast down so that instead of simply converting sugars to carbon dioxide for leavening, the yeast and naturally occurring enzymes have time to work on the flour’s starches and proteins. The result is a dough with:
- Better flavor — organic acids accumulate over 24–48 hours, adding depth that reads as something approaching a very mild sourdough
- Better extensibility — the long ferment relaxes the gluten network so the dough stretches without springing back or tearing
- Better crust color — fermented dough contains more residual sugars that Maillard-react at high heat, producing a deeper golden-brown to charred-edge color faster
You need nothing special for cold fermentation — just a covered bowl in the refrigerator. Mix the dough the night before the night you plan to bake. That is the entire commitment. That same overnight cold rest rewards sweeter, enriched styles too — it is one of the secrets behind our copycat Papa John’s pizza dough.
The Cheese Sequence in Detail
Di Fara applies cheese in a specific order that looks wrong to anyone who has only ever made pizza the standard way. The standard way is: sauce, then mozzarella, then other toppings on top. Di Fara’s order:
- Sauce first — thin layer of hand-crushed San Marzano, just salt and olive oil
- Grana Padano over the sauce — finely grated, a light even layer. This is the step most people leave out. The Grana Padano seasons the sauce and adds an aged-cheese character from underneath.
- Block mozzarella — thinly sliced (1/8 inch) from a block of whole-milk low-moisture mozzarella, laid in a single layer
- Fresh fior di latte — added in the last 90 seconds of baking, after the block mozz has fully melted. The fresh cheese is soft enough to barely melt; it retains its creamy, milky quality rather than breaking into grease.
The Grana Padano that goes under the mozzarella is easy to overlook. Do not overlook it.
The Steel Preheat: The Step You Cannot Shortcut
Di Fara uses a commercial gas deck oven. The floor of a deck oven is a thick ceramic or stone slab preheated for hours before service. When a shaped pizza hits that surface, heat transfers instantaneously to the dough — the bottom begins crisping before the top has even started to color.
At home, the equivalent is a pizza steel on the top rack of your oven, set to maximum temperature (typically 550°F), heated for a full 60 minutes. Not 30 minutes. Not 45.
The reason is thermal mass. A cold steel simply absorbs your dough’s moisture before it can crisp. A saturated steel dehydrates and crisps the bottom of the dough in the first seconds of contact, while the ambient oven heat and any broiler element you engage handles the top. At 60 minutes, a baking steel holds enough heat to do this properly. At 30, it does not.
If you want something close to Di Fara’s crust at home, this is the non-negotiable step.
The Finishing: Basil and Olive Oil After Baking
Most home recipes call for fresh basil as a garnish after the pizza cools slightly. At Di Fara the basil is cut — with scissors, not a knife — directly over the hot pie as soon as it exits the oven, the move Dom did on nearly every pizza for decades. The difference is meaningful: the heat from the pizza warms the basil just enough to release its volatile aromatics while leaving the leaves bright green rather than black. It perfumes the entire pizza rather than sitting on top of it.
The olive oil is the same principle. A drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil over a finished pizza — not baked in, but applied after — brings fragrance that cooked oil cannot. Di Fara uses a good Italian olive oil applied from height so it distributes in a fine spiral. Use the best olive oil you have. This is one place where a $20 bottle of olive oil from Liguria or Sicily beats a $6 bottle from a generic source.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Di Fara pizza different from a standard New York slice?
Several things. First, the cheese sequence: Grana Padano goes on over the sauce before the mozzarella — not on top — and fresh fior di latte is added in the last two minutes of baking rather than at the start. Second, the finishing: fresh basil cut with scissors after the pie exits the oven, and a drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil. These are applied after baking, not before, and they change the flavor entirely — the basil stays bright rather than burning, and the olive oil perfumes the whole pie rather than disappearing into the crust. Third, the dough: Di Fara uses a cold-fermented, relatively high-hydration dough that produces a crust with more complexity than a typical same-day pizza dough.
Why three cheeses? What does each one contribute?
The three cheeses serve different functions. Block whole-milk low-moisture mozzarella is the structural cheese — it melts smoothly, stretches in sheets, and holds the slice together without releasing too much water. Grana Padano, grated directly over the sauce before the mozzarella, adds savory depth and a slight sweetness; it seasons the sauce from underneath rather than sitting on top where it would brown too fast. Fresh fior di latte added late barely melts, holding its milky, delicate flavor instead of breaking into grease. Together they provide richness, stretch, depth, and freshness that any single cheese cannot.
Do I need a pizza steel or can I use a sheet pan?
A pizza steel or thick baking stone is strongly recommended. The 60-minute preheat saturates the steel with heat so it can transfer that heat to the dough in seconds — the same function Dom’s deck oven performs. Sheet pans do not retain enough heat: the dough sits on cold metal and steams rather than crisps. If you do not have a steel, a cast-iron skillet or griddle preheated in the same way is the next best option. A baking steel is the single piece of equipment most worth buying if you make pizza at home more than once a month.
Can I skip the cold ferment?
You can use a same-day room-temperature ferment of 1.5 to 2 hours, but the crust will be blander and less extensible. The 24-hour cold ferment requires nothing special — just advance planning. The 48-hour version is noticeably better. Mix the dough on Thursday evening and bake Saturday for a result that genuinely rewards the wait.









